Adobe Walls

"Lone Star Historian 2" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas during his second year. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine. In 2013 he was awarded an honorary Doctor of Letters degree by his alma mater, Texas A&M University - Commerce. 

The Wild West History Association held its annual Roundup in Amarillo from July 15-18. An unforgettable highlight of the Roundup was a field trip to Adobe Walls, site of two notable battles of the Indian Wars. Adobe Walks is located on private property, the historic Turkey Tracks Ranch. The closest I had ever come to Adobe Walls was a historical monument on the outskirts of Stinnett, indicating that the famous site was 17 miles to the northeast. 

Monument, Adobe Walls 1874

But the leadership team of the WWHA arranged a large-scale field trip for Friday, July 17, with the kind permission of the ranch owners, the Whittenburg family. The buses were lined up, and all 168 seats were filled. A fourth bus came from Borger, with members of the Hutchinson County Historical Society aboard. The WWHA buses began loading at 7:30 AM, and we pulled out of the hotel parking lot half an hour later. Our journey north across the High Plains took nearly two hours. When we arrived at the site of the 1874 Battle of Adobe Walls, a large tent and 200 folding chairs awaited us.

Monument honoring Native
American warriors

Program chair Roy Young voiced a welcome and introduced the great-great-grandson of Kit Carson, commander of federal troops at the 1864 Battle of Adobe Walls. Following John Carson’s description of his famous ancestor, Clay Renick, Director of Borger’s Hutchinson County Museum, offered remarks on the “History of Adobe Walls.” We were incredibly fortunate to have in attendance two men who had conducted more on-site research at Adobe Walls than anyone else. Alvin Lynn is an archaeologist who has done extensive field work at Adobe Walls, and who walked the 200-mile route taken by Col. Kit Carson and his column from Fort Bascom, New Mexico, to Adobe Walls. (When I asked Alvin about the threat of critters during his trek, he shrugged matter-of-factly and mentioned rattlesnakes “and a few cougars in the mountains.”) Alvin has worked at Adobe Walls alongside J. Brett Cruse, Sites Supervisor of the Historic Sites Division of the Texas Historical Commission. Alvin and Brett oriented us regarding the sites of the 1864 and 1874 events.

Billy Dixon grave

Next I presented a 10-minute program on Billy Dixon, the buffalo hunter who shot a Comanche off his horse on a distant ridge during the 1874 siege. A shooting demonstration followed, with 10 raffle-winners firing blanks from a Sharps Big Fifty buffalo gun at two re-enactors atop a ridge 750 yards away. The re-enactors later told us of the unique view they enjoyed, looking down at the site of the 1874 Battle of Adobe Walls. We all walked around the site, admiring and photographing the monuments and historical markers. We boarded the buses for a one-mile trip to the site of the 1864 Battle of Adobe Walls. Among the features pointed out by Alvin Lynn was the hilltop where Colonel Carson positioned the two field howitzers which held off what should have been an overwhelming force of Comanche and Kiowa warriors. On our drive back to Amarillo, we ate box lunches and reflected upon our remarkable field trip.

Alvin Lynn addressing the crowd

The next morning we enjoyed a series of programs which provided follow-up to our field trip to Adobe Walls. Alvin Lynn and Brett Cruse shared their expertise with us in 30-minute presentations about, respectively, “Adobe Walls 1864” and “Adobe Walls 1874.” The next program, “Trajectory Analysis of the .50-90 Sharps Bullet Fired During the 2^nd Battle of Adobe Walls,” was presented by Dr. James Bailey. Billy Dixon’s legendary shot has been ascribed by others as aimed at a line of war leaders on a far ridge seven-eighths of a mile distant, rather than the closer range of 750 yards distance. However, we had learned that while numerous artifacts had been excavated at the closer ridge, none had been found at the site seven-eighths of a mile from the buffalo hunter’s position. And after hearing Dr. Bailey’s facts about the incredible elevation required, the  drop of the bullet, and other facts (the slug would take nearly five seconds to arrive at the far ridge, for example), those of us who had observed both ridges began to assume that Dixon’s shot was triggered at warriors on the nearer ridge.

Brett Cruse orienting the crowd

Bill talking about Billy Dixon

Following a break I was privileged to participate in an hour-long Adobe Walls Panel with Alvin and Brett, while Clay Renick served as moderator. I was able to provide context for Carson’s 1864 campaign and for the Red River War of 1874-75 as well as the tactics of Comanche and Kiowa warriors. Brett and Alvin added more details to their excellent morning presentations, and we each responded to questions from the audience.

At long last I’ve had an opportunity to visit Adobe Walls, after years of writing and lecturing about the campaigns and battles. And I was enormously impressed by the depth of hard-earned knowledge by our guest experts, Alvin Lynn and Brett Cruse.

The target ridge, 750 yards away. To see two re-enactors,
just left of center, click on photo to enlarge.

Monument, Adobe Walls 1864

Hilltop where Col. Kit Carson positioned
the  two field howitzers

Next morning, Adobe Walls Panel:
Brett Cruse, Alvin Lynn,
Bill, Clay Renick

Wild West History Association

"Lone Star Historian 2" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas during his second year. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine. In 2013 he was awarded an honorary Doctor of Letters degree by his alma mater, Texas A&M University - Commerce. 

Buffet line at opening reception

The Wild West History Association held its 8^th Annual Roundup in Amarillo, July 15-18, at the Wyndham Gardens Hotel. I am a charter member of the WWHA, and Texans comprise the largest membership group. But there are members throughout the nation, and we have held Roundups in Arizona, New Mexico, Colorado, Idaho, and, next year, Oklahoma. We had excellent attendance in San Antonio a few years ago, and more than 200 Wild West enthusiasts met together in Amarillo.

Bob McCubbin of Santa Fe is a noted expert and collector of Western photographs. Bob was a founder and the first president of WWHA, and he remains a force in the organization. Roy Young, of Apache, Oklahoma, is an author, book review editor of the WWHA Journal, and the resourceful, tireless program chair of our Roundups. Bob and Roy asked me, as Texas State Historian, to suggest program topics and field trip possibilities. I lined up certain speakers, and happily accepted several assignments on the program.

With board member Kurt House, Karon, and WWHA
founding father  Bob McCubbin

Our opening event was a Wednesday evening reception. There was an excellent catered meal, along with entertainment from WWHA President Jim Dunham, Arizona State Historian Marshall Trimble, and Michael Wallis, award-winning author and the voice of the Sheriff in Cars and Cars 2.

With Bill and Gayla Neal

On Thursday morning it was my privilege to present the opening program on “Tascosa: Cowboy Capital of the Panhandle.” The site of old Tascosa is only 27 miles northwest of Amarillo, and features one of the most haunting boot hills in the West, as well as a stone court house built in 1884. A strong interest of most WWHA members is gunfighters and shootouts, and during Tascosa’s 1880s heyday, I tried to show that this wolf-howl of a town could just a well have been called the “Gunfighter Capital of the Panhandle.” My wife Karon helped me put together a PowerPoint presentation that illustrated old Tascosa.

Program chair Roy Young

When my program ended, it was a pleasure to introduce Bill Neal. A native West Texan, Bill was raised on a ranch south of Quanah. After graduation with honors from the University of Texas Law School, Bill launched a 40-year career as an attorney. After he retired, Bill began writing a series of books on the colorful and flamboyant lawyers and court cases of frontier Texas. His WWHA program was delightful, and it was followed by other excellent presentations.

At noon our Awards Luncheon honored several fine writers, including Larry Ball, whose superb biography of Tom Horn was announced as WWHA Book of the Year. That afternoon there was a field trip to the magnificent Panhandle-Plains Museum in Canyon, 18 miles to the south.

On Thursday evening Bob McCubbin interviewed Karen Holliday Tanner, a descendant of Doc Holliday, who wrote a delightful biography of the dentist/gunfighter. The event was our annual “Evening With…”, and Bob and Karen provided us a memorable and informative hour.

WWHA President Jim Dunham

On Friday morning we boarded three buses for a field trip to Adobe Walls, site of important battles against Comanches and Kiowas in 1864 and 1874. Adobe Walls is on private property, and this field trip was a premier attraction of the 2015 Roundup. Every seat - 168 – on three busses was occupied, and another bus from the Hutchinson County Historical Society met us at Adobe Walls. I was one of four speakers asked to deliver a brief talk on site. “Billy Dixon” was my assigned topic, and I spoke standing no more than 20 feet from his grave. Adobe Walls was an unforgettable experience for all of us, and it will be the subject of next week’s blog.

Speaking on "Tascosa"

Back at the hotel in late afternoon, there were more programs, and that evening our annual business meeting was conducted. On Saturday morning the slate of programs included archaeologist Alvin Lynn on “Adobe Walls 1864” and Brett Cruse of the Texas Historical Commission on “Adobe Walls 1874.”  It was my privilege to introduce Brett,  who was followed by Dr. James Bailey, who provided a fascinating analysis of Billy Dixon’s legendary  shot from a Sharps Big Fifty at the 1874 Battle of Adobe Walls. Later in the morning  I was part of an Adobe Walls Panel; which featured Alvin Lynn and Brett Cruse, as well as moderator Clay Renick, Director of the Hutchinson County Museum.

Vendors packed up during the afternoon, and Saturday evening the Annual Boots and Spurs Banquet provided a stage for the Silent Auction and for the auction of donated artifacts. The keynote speaker was Paul Andrew Hutton, who has appeared on more than 200 TV documentaries and has been a historical consultant for a number of motion pictures. A five-time winner of the Spur Award of the Western Writers of America, Dr. Hutton is Distinguished Professor of History at the University of New Mexico. He provided a brilliant and thought-provoking presentation on Kit Carson, recounting his adventurous career, then offering thoughts about Kit’s recent fall from favor as a popular hero in the context of Political Correctness. This superb program from one of the leading frontier historians of our time gave a fitting close to one of the most notable Western events of 2015. 

For more information:  wildwesthistory.org

Panhandle-Plains Museum

Larry Ball and his wife Ruth after receiving
the Book of the Year Award

With Arizona State Historian Marshall Trimble

Bob McCubbin interviewing Karen Holliday Tanner

Four buses at Adobe Walls

Marker for 1864 battle

Dr. James Bailey

Adobe Walls Panel: Brett Cruse, Alvin Lynn,
Bill, and moderator Clay Renick

Saturday night banquet

My sister and brother-in-law,
Judy and John Smith

Keynote speaker Paul Andrew Hutton

Goodnight Ranch House

"Lone Star Historian 2" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas during his second year. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine. In 2013 he was awarded an honorary Doctor of Letters degree by his alma mater, Texas A&M University - Commerce. 

At the Quanah Parker Trail Arrow in
front of the house where the chief visited.

Twice per summer for two decades, beginning in 1976, I conducted a Traveling Texas History Course from Panola College in Carthage. The class carried three hours’ credit, and was built around a seven-day, 2,100-mile itinerary to historic sites across the Lone Star State. On the second morning, as we drove northwest on Highway 287 toward Amarillo and Palo Duro Canyon, our Panola vans passed through the hamlet of Goodnight. As the Fort Worth and Denver City Railroad built through the area in 1887, a watering stop was named in honor of legendary cattleman Charles Goodnight.

Goodnight opened five cattle trails, the most famous of which was the Goodnight-Loving Trail. He had an uncanny sense of direction and terrain, and his masterful organization and careful precautions earned him safe passage where others encountered various disasters. His most famous ranch was the JAs, named after British financier John Adair. At its height, in the mid-1880s, more than 100,000 JA cattle grazed on over 1,335,000 acres. The headquarters complex of the JAs was in Palo Duro Canyon. Early in our marriage in 1994, Karon and I visited these historic buildings, while researching Historic Ranches of the Old West, which was published by Eakin Press in 1997. The old JAs headquarters structures still are in use and are little changed from the 1800s.

Adair died in 1885, and within two years Goodnight and Adair’s widow made a settlement that involved the sale of his minority interest. In 1887 the Fort Worth and Denver City Railroad laid tracks through Armstrong County and named a townsite after the famed cattleman. Goodnight and his wife Molly moved to the prospective community and in the area he established a new ranch. Goodnight and his wife Molly built a two-story, rambling frame house where the famed cattleman spent the last four decades of his life.

The Goodnight house was the first Panhandle home designed by an architect. The floor plan and many distinctive architectural features were Victorian in style. The home featured a large second-floor sleeping porch in the rear, as well as an office behind the ground-floor master bedroom. The office was decorated to his tastes, and when Karon and I toured the house, our docent accurately described it as his “man cave.” Quanah Parker was among the frontier notables who visited with Goodnight in the den. Rancher-author J. Evetts Haley also spent time with Goodnight, later producing a classic biography of the pioneer rancher.

Rear of the house sleeping porch on the 2nd level

Goodnight sold the ranch in 1919, with the provision that he and Molly could live out their lives in the house they had built. Molly died in 1926, after 55 years of marriage, and Goodnight passed away three years later, at the age of 93. Goodnight was buried beside Molly at the Goodnight Cemetery, on a hilltop west of the little community.

"Back from the Brink," statue showing Molly Goodnight
nurturing a buffalo calf on the home ranch.

Cleo Hubbard, raised by Goodnight, was the longtime foreman of the Goodnight Ranch. His daughter, Montie, was born in the house. Montie taught for three decades in the schools of nearby Claude, and she and her husband Emery Goodin, make their home in a ranch house a short distance south of the old Goodnight house. Montie Goodin has been a force in historical preservation of the region, and beginning in 2005 she led a multi-million dollar restoration of the Goodnight home. The original paint and wallpaper were discovered and duplicated, and the house boasts numerous furnishings and decorative items from the Goodnight couple.

School for ranch children

J. Evetts Haley Visitor and Events Center

The house opened to the public in 2013, and the J. Evetts Haley Visitor and Event Center was erected in front of the historic home and outbuildings. There are excellent artifacts and exhibits in the Haley Visitor Center, and the house, of course, is the most tangible reminder of Goodnight’s past. Goodnight was an iconic figure of the cattle frontier, and in 1956 he was one of five charter members of the National Cowboy Hall of Fame. The Charles Goodnight Historical Center, located on Highway 287 about 40 miles east of Amarillo, is a Texas history treat that should not be missed.

Working a rolling exhibit

For more information:
http://www.armstrongcountymuseum.com/visitor-center.html

Sleeping porch

Goodnight's "man cave"

Dining room with restored wallpaper