I spent the first
weekend in May representing Texas at the 150th anniversary celebration of the
Chisholm Trail, held in Caldwell, Kansas. Caldwell, located just above the
Kansas-Oklahoma line, became known as the "Border Queen."
For more than a decade the Border Queen was a wild trail town, the first place
since leaving Texas that cowboys had access to liquor and other recreational
possibilities. Before driving their herds farther north to a Kansas railhead,
drovers could drink and cavort with sporting women in Caldwell. Where
liquor flowed so freely there were brawls and shootouts, along with
lynchings, and violence continued after Caldwell became the
Chisholm Trail railhead. Indeed, the casualty list in and around the
Border Queen was greater than that in Abilene or Wichita or Dodge City.
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On the approach to Caldwell from the South, these silhouettes were erected
by volunteers in 1995. |
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This arch overlooks the principal intersection of Main Street. |
When I was invited as
State Historian to represent Texas at the Caldwell Chisholm Trail Festival, it
was explained to me that there would be dignitaries from Kansas and Oklahoma.
Of course, I felt that there SHOULD be a Texas representative, since both
the cattle and the cowboys came from the Lone Star State. I was asked
to make an address about frontier Caldwell and to sign copies of a
book I had written, Border Queen
Caldwell, Toughest Town on the Chisholm Trail. Through the years I had
written articles about the Border Queen, as well as a biography about the
murderous city marshal, Henry Brown, and I donated to the Border Queen
Museum a scale model of Caldwell in the 1880s. Through all of these projects I
was aided by a remarkable Caldwell historian, Karen Sturm. Karen has energy,
enthusiasm, and organizational gifts, and she has put together a number of
heritage events for the Border Queen, including the Caldwell Chisholm Trail
Festival.
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Caldwell's first Opera House was saved and restored by volunteers. |
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The scale model of early Caldwell that I researched and built is still displayed by the Border Queen Museum. |
The most famous of all
cattle trails, the Chisholm Trail, opened in 1867, and during the next 18 years
more than 4 million longhorns were driven up the historic route to Kansas
railheads. The first railhead was developed by cattle buyer Joseph G. McCoy at
Abilene, where Texas drovers enjoyed raucous sprees after months on the trail.
By 1871 tracks were laid toward the south, and Abilene became nearly deserted,
while Newton had one season as railhead before the tracks moved on to Wichita,
which remained end-of-track for the Chisholm Trail during the rest of the
decade.
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Historical markers have been placed all over downtown Caldwell. This one quotes me from a book I wrote, "Border Queen Caldwell: Toughest Town on the Chisholm Trail." |
But a farmers' quarantine
law blocked the Chisholm Trail, even though business was too lucrative to
abandon. So in 1880 railroad tracks were extended 49 miles southwest to
Caldwell, then another three miles to the state line, where a large stockyard
was erected. Texas steers entered the stockyard through gates in Oklahoma,
before being driven onto cattle cars without violation of the quarantine
law. Caldwell thus became the last railhead on the Chisholm Trail, until the
penetration of Texas by railroads ended the famous Long Drives and closed the
cattle trails.
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With fellow Texans, David and Rena French |
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On Friday night a "Ghost Walk" up and down Main Street attracted
an unexpectedly large crowd. |
The Caldwell Chisholm
Trail Festival began on Friday, May 5, when area fourth-graders, along with
early-bird tourists, toured the museums and exhibits and historic sites. The
town's first opera house displayed a traveling exhibit, "Chisholm Trail
Sesquicentennial: Driving the American West, 1867-2017." At the Border
Queen Museum a Western art collection was exhibited, while upstairs a "Robbers
Roost" displayed a bordello suite.
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With sporting lady |
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The original Boot Hill was north of town, and the few remaining markers were moved to Caldwell's permanent cemetery. |
Hundreds of people came
to town for Saturday's activities, which included stagecoach rides around town,
mechanical bull rides, calf roping, longhorn cattle, Chisholm Trail Arts and
Crafts Show, a street shootout, a Beard and Mustache Contest, a Chuck Wagon
Dinner, an Old West Poker Tourney at a local saloon, and a Saturday night street
dance. On Sunday morning all local churches combined for a Cowboy Church
Meeting, and later there were two quilt shows. There were other weekend
activities, too numerous to mention. It was a splendid celebration, staged by a
community of 1,100 people with a deep appreciation of the important
and colorful place in history held by their town.
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Deputy Sherriff Cash Hollister was fatally wounded in a shoot-out with outlaws outside town. |
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An impressive G.A.R. (Grand Army of the Republic) monument at the Caldwell Cemetery |
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Vendors
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I used
a poster showing my great grandfather, Jess Standard, with a trail crew. |
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Caldwell Mayor Mark Arnold reading a proclamation on our flatbed stage
(Karen Sturm is at left.) |
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The 150th birthday cake at a private lunch on
Saturday
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My great-grandfather,
Jess Standard, trailed cattle from Lampasas County to Kansas during the 1870s
and 1880s. At Caldwell during May 5-6-7 I paid tribute, as State Historian, to
Jess and the hundreds of other Texas cowboys who drove cattle herds up the
Chisholm Trail. And like the drovers of long ago, I had a grand time in the
Border Queen.
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With
Karen Sturm, the dynamic Boss Wrangler of the Caldwell celebration |
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With
Jesse Chisholm, great-great-grandson and namesake of the pioneer who blazed the
Chisholm Trail |
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Signing
books for a long line at the Border Queen Museum |
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Sporting ladies at the entrance to the upstairs Bordello replica |
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Sporting ladies in the Bordello parlor
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