Jefferson at Christmas

"Lone Star Historian 2" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas during his second year. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine. In 2013 he was awarded an honorary Doctor of Letters degree by his alma mater, Texas A&M University - Commerce. 

Excelsior House, antebellum hotel

For a Christmas blog this year, I wanted to visit and report on some sort of Texas Christmas display or activity. My wife Karon and I searched everything from the Dickens on the Strand at Galveston to the spectacular Wonderland of Lights in Marshall to the Christmas extravaganza at Grapevine. But of the dozens of community events we googled, most were of relatively recent vintage and were more modern than historic. Dickens on the Strand, with its Victorian flavor, is justifiably famous throughout Texas and elsewhere, and needs no publicity from my modest blog.

Excelsior House lobby

We decided upon Jefferson, today a small (2,100 population) county seat town which enjoyed its economic and cultural heyday from the 1840s until the early 1870s. With a population of nearly 8,000, Jefferson prospered as a river port. An architectural reflection of that prosperity was the profusion of antebellum homes, commercial buildings, and churches. Without the need for growth after the 1870s, Jefferson retained a great many of its antebellum structures. Karon and I decided to tour Jefferson, taking special note of antebellum buildings decorated in nineteenth-century style.

House of the Four Seasons

As we drove through the streets, we noted old-fashioned evergreens on the antebellum homes and throughout the commercial district. Lions Park offered an “Enchanted Park” of decorated trees. The two-story Chamber of Commerce building was richly decorated. I entered the lobby of the Excelsior House, an historic hotel opened before the Civil War, to admire the decorations. While we were downtown, we enjoyed an excellent meal before resuming our tour.

Lions Park Enchanted Forest, with the superb
1872 Presbyterian Church in the background

Just north of the downtown is the vintage depot which serves as headquarters for the popular Jefferson Rail of Lights. The brightly painted steam engine is a replica of an 1860s engine. The five-mile round-trip loops through the pine forest and along Big Cypress Bayou, and Christmas scenes on the route include: Polar Express, Oriental Christmas, Toy Land, Teddy Bear, Charlie Brown Christmas, a nativity scene – and a live alligator pit!

With engineer Willie Turlington

At the station we encountered Willie Turlington, the genial engineer of the Rail of Lights train. He opened up the depot for us, and let us tour the engine and cars. Willie told us that on opening night of the 2015 Rail of Lights, more than 600 passengers rode the train with him. Another highly popular Christmas activity is the Candlelight Tour of Homes. For a Texas history buff, Jefferson offers a nostalgic Christmas experience.

Willie Turlington in a passenger car

Before leaving town, we drove to the oldest section of historic Oakwood Cemetery. For an upcoming article on desperado Cullen Montgomery Baker in Wild West Magazine, I needed to shoot a color photo of the outlaw’s grave. Baker was killed in 1867, and most of his nearby cemetery neighbors would have seen Jefferson in its antebellum Christmas glory.

Inside the depot

Grave of Cullen Baker

Colleyville and Van Alstyne

"Lone Star Historian 2" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas during his second year. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine. In 2013 he was awarded an honorary Doctor of Letters degree by his alma mater, Texas A&M University - Commerce. 

O.C. Taylor Elementary (Taylor Tiger in front)

On Monday, December 14, I had the pleasure of presenting programs to two large groups of school children in Colleyville and Van Alstyne. These appearances coincided with Christmas visits by me and my wife Karon to the homes of our four daughters. On Sunday and Monday, December 13 and 14, we celebrated Christmas with Berri O’Neal Gormley, her husband Drew, and their children, first-grader Addison and kindergarteners Reagan and Nolan, who are twins. The Gormleys moved to their new home in Colleyville last year in time for Addison, Reagan and Nolan to enroll at O.C. Taylor Elementary School.

The Morning Show team

For Monday morning, Karon and I planned to accompany Berri in delivering her children to O.C. Taylor to have a quick look at the school in operation. Through Berri, I offered to donate to the school library an autographed copy of my children’s book, Long Before the Pilgrims, The First Thanksgiving, El Paso del Norte 1598. The school responded with an invitation to address fourth-graders (who currently are studying Texas History) and fifth-graders (who studied Texas History last year, of course). We agreed upon my program on “Texas Cowboys,” which I’ve delivered in numerous schools for a number of years.

With Nolan and Addion Gormley
waiting to go on camera

On camera with Nolan, Addison,
Librarian Dawn Bonacci, and Berri Gormley

We all arrived at O.C. Taylor at 7:30 on Monday morning. Principal David Kinney stages “The Morning Show, Featuring the Taylor Tiger News.” The show airs each day from 7:45 – 8:00, televised throughout the school on closed-circuit TV. A room has been converted to a television studio, with camera and sound equipment. Each week a new team of fifth-graders stages The Morning  Show. A boy and a girl sit at the anchor desk and deliver school news and announcements.  A weather-man or -girl alerts students to outdoor conditions, and a lunch reporter announces the cafeteria choices. During the last few moments of the telecast I was introduced as Texas State Historian by my daughter Berri, and I was flanked on-camera by Addison and Nolan, who were thrilled to be on the TV show that they watch each morning. I gave a brief description of Long Before the Pilgrims, emphasizing that the thanksgiving ceremony on the Rio Grande occurred in Texas 23 years before the Pilgrim event of 1621. I presented a copy of the book to librarian Dawn Bonacci, and as the show ended we all hustled to the library.

Within moments the library filled with fourth- and fifth-graders (as well as my three grandchildren). I presented this program in vaquero and cowboy attire, and Karon also dressed for the occasion, helping me with the cowgirl clothing demonstration. I use branding irons, spurs, and other props to describe the colorful elements which made Texas cowboys the world’s Number One Folk Hero. The program is designed for 30 minutes, but Principal Kinney requested an additional Q and A session. The questions came rapid-fire, well-informed questions about the Alamo and Native Americans and other Texas subjects, as well as about cowboys and great ranches and cattle drives. The social studies teachers must have been proud of their students, who repeatedly demonstrated sound instruction.

By mid-day Karon and I were driving northeast for Van Alstyne, where we were scheduled to celebrate Christmas in the home of my youngest daughter, Causby O’Neal Henderson, her husband Dusty, and their daughters, Bailey and Kendall. Causby is a kindergarten teacher at Van Alstyne Elementary, where Kendall is a third-grader. Bailey is in the fifth grade at Van Alstyne Middle School, and her language arts teacher is Carnelita Littlejohn. A few weeks ago I received a phone call from Mrs. Littlejohn, who explained the current activities and goals of her language arts students, before inviting me to address the entire fifth grade about my experiences as an author. Of course, a number of my books and articles have been about aspects of Texas history and culture. I mentioned to Mrs. Littlejohn that during my first three years in education I taught eighth-grade language arts at Lampasas Junior High. From Lampasas I became the head football coach and principal at Anna High School – four  miles south of Van Alstyne -  and my teaching assignment was all four grades of high school English.

With Principal David Kinney, Karon,
and Librarian Bonacci

Van Alstyne Middle School

At Van Alstyne Middle School I was greeted by Mrs. Littlejohn and by Principal Ryan Coleman. They ushered us to the library, where we were introduced to librarian Pat Kuhns. We were treated most graciously, and I was asked to explain to her students my role as State Historian. At 1:40 (the start of sixth period) about 120 students entered the library. They were attentive and responsive, and toward the end of the period I opened another Q and A. Again I received a lively barrage of questions.

With Carnelita Littlejohn and Librarian Pat Kuhns

In a single day I provided programs to two large groups of students: one group from a growing suburban community, and another in a small town of 3,000. In both schools the students were bright, well-disciplined, enthusiastic, and had absorbed quality teaching. The students are a credit to their respective communities, and these students and schools offer strong hope for the future of America.

With granddaughter Bailey Henderson

Holding the book I wrote on Van Alstyne

Independence

"Lone Star Historian 2" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas during his second year. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine. In 2013 he was awarded an honorary Doctor of Letters degree by his alma mater, Texas A&M University - Commerce. 

St. John's Lutheran Church, outside town 

During October, while traveling south to participate in an event in Hallettsville, I turned off the highway for a short drive through the countryside to Independence. It had been several years since I had visited this historic community, and I knew that much has been done to preserve the rich heritage of Independence. John P. Coles, one of Stephen F. Austin’s “Old 300” colonists, was the area’s first settler, and as the village grew it was called Coles’ settlement. But after Texas independence from Mexico was won in 1836, the community became known as Independence. Baylor University was born in Independence in 1845, developing separate campuses for young men and women. The president of Baylor customarily served as pastor of Independence Baptist Church, organized in 1839. In 1854 President/Reverend Rufus Burleson baptized Sam Houston before a large crowd at Rock Creek outside of town. Houston and his family resided in Independence for a time during the 1850s, and following his death in 1863 in Huntsville, Margaret Houston moved back to be near her mother, who lived across the street from the Baptist Church and who was a mainstay of the community.

Entrance to Texas Baptist Historical Museum

Brenham, to the south, won the seat of Washington County by a two-vote margin over Independence. With no major transportation route, Independence remained a small rural community – therfore many of its early buildings were not torn down in order to be replaced by non-existent new construction. Baylor University moved to Waco in 1885, with a women’s college at Mary Hardin Baylor in Belton. Independence long has offered a well-preserved collection of early Texas buildings.

Gravestone of Margaret Houston

I stopped first at the Texas Baptist Historical Center, attached to the stone sanctuary that was erected in 1872. Inside I was greeted by Rev. Phil Hassell, pastor of the Baptist Church and director of the Texas Baptist Historical Center. This museum offers a superb survey of the history of Baptists in Texas. There are artifacts from the home of Sam and Margaret Houston, as well as a large depiction of the baptism of Houston by Reverend Burleson. On display is a shiny church bell provided by Margaret’s mother, Nancy Lea, who sold her fine silverware for $500 so that her church could have a proper bell. Nancy’s home was across the road from the church, and when she died in 1864 she was buried beside her house facing her church.

Gravestone of Margaret's mother, Nancy Lea

Historic 1872 Baptist Church

Margaret’s house was nearby, and in 1867 she died at 48 during a yellow fever epidemic. Because of public health restrictions, Margaret was interred immediately, beside her mother. Other family members also were buried in this small private cemetery. Nancy Lea left her property to the church, and today a modern Baptist church stands on the site of her final home.

In recent years both the women’s campus, with ruins of a few buildings (Old Baylor Park) and the men’s campus (Baylor Park on Windmill Hill) have been improved with informative interpretive exhibits. Just past the men’s campus park, Sam Houston Road leads two miles to the site of Houston’s baptism. (After Reverend Burleson announced from the creek that Houston’s sins were washed away, Sam famously stated, “Well, God help the fishes!”)

Historical markers in the town square with old frame
school in the background

The two-story antebellum house where Margaret Houston lived with her children during the last four years of her life still stands on Main Street. Just down the street is the picturesque Independence General Store. There is an old frame school and numerous other historical buildings. The 1872 stone Baptist Church is still used for weddings and other special occasions. Indeed, it is one of six venerable churches in and around Independence that are beautifully lit and provide striking evening tours. The two Baylor parks also are lit, at Christmas a growing number of other buildings light up during the season, and Independence has become a popular site for Christmas bus tours. At Christmas or any other season, Independence is well worth a visit by Texas history buffs.

For more information: http://www.independencetx.com/IndependenceBaptistChurch.htm

Margaret Houston's final home

Rev. Phil Hassell

Church bell, courtesy of Nancy Lea

Facade remains of Baylor's
Women's Building

Sam Houston was baptized in the creek
behind this marker.

Regulator-Moderator War

"Lone Star Historian 2" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas during his second year. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine. In 2013 he was awarded an honorary Doctor of Letters degree by his alma mater, Texas A&M University - Commerce. 

Wiley College Choir

Recently I traveled to Marshall to present a program on the Regulator-Moderator War. The event was a luncheon fundraiser for the Harrison County Historical Association. I enjoyed talking with a number of old friends and former students. Marshall is the largest city within the Panola College district, and for 36 years I taught Marshall students on the Panola campus, at Marshall High School, and at Panola’s satellite campus in Marshall.

During our meal we were treated to an outstanding performance by the Wiley College Choir. Becky Palmer, Assistant Director for Education of the Harrison County Historical Association, welcomed everyone, handed out several door prizes, and provided me a most gracious introduction.

Becky had asked me to speak on the Regulator-Moderator War, which originated in newly-organized Harrison County late in 1840. I wrote a book on this subject, Regulators vs. Moderators, War in East Texas, which was published in 2006 in conjunction with the East Texas Historical Association. Texas was the site of more blood feuds than any other state or territory, enduring these conflicts for more than 70 years. The Regulator-Moderator War was the first blood feud in Texas, and the most murderous. Thirty-one men were killed during the Regulator-Moderator War, more than in any other blood feud in America. “Only” eight of the 31 victims were slain in Harrison County, but they included Robert Potter, who signed the Texas Declaration of Independence and who served the Republic as secretary of the navy and as senator. Although a controversial, contentious individual, Potter was the most prominent man killed in the Regulator-Moderator War. But Sheriff John B. Campbell also was gunned down, and so were Peter Whetstone, founder of Marshall, and Judge John Hansford, who was assassinated by a Regulator posse in front of his wife.

With Bill Offer

When the conflict climaxed in Shelby County in 1844, more than 100 Harrison County men rode in to reinforce the Regulators around Shelbyville. There also were Harrison County reinforcements for the Moderators. During the final maneuvers in Shelby County, there were approximately 200 Regulators aligned against 100 Moderators. President Sam Houston and 600 members of the Texas militia finally dispersed the Regulator and Moderator forces in 1844, although vendetta killings common to blood feuds occasionally occurred during the next few years. The program was well received, and I was interviewed on the spot by Fran Hurley of KMHT Radio in Marshall.

With members of the Panola College Texas history class

Two weeks later I was in a classroom on the Panola College campus lecturing on the Regulator-Moderator War. Bill Offer, chair of the history department and a retired Shreveport police captain, had invited me to talk to his Texas history class about the murderous feud that was fought in our back yard. I explained to the students that Shelby and Harrison counties were backwoods areas with small populations, while the region in between was so sparsely populated that it was classified as “Panola District.” It was a pleasure for me to address a Panola College Texas history class.

Receiving a T-shirt from Callie Wright, President of the
Panola College History Club

With Carson Joines

The next week I was back on campus to provide a program for the Carthage Rotary Club. All three of our service clubs – Rotary, Lions, Kiwanis – now hold their meetings in the new Panola College Student Services Building, with meals prepared by the dining staff. I was asked to speak by longtime former mayor Carson Joines, a Beaumont native and army veteran who came to Carthage in 1948 as a charter student of Panola County Junior College. Carson had a football scholarship for the original Panola Ponies, and he settled permanently in Carthage. I was pleased to meet with Carson and the other men and women of the Rotary Club. It was Friday, November 20, so I talked about the background of Thanksgiving, featuring the Texas Thanksgiving held near El Paso del Norte in 1598 – 23 years before the first Pilgrim Thanksgiving of 1621!

The First Thanksgiving

"Lone Star Historian 2" is a blog about the travels and activities of the State Historian of Texas during his second year. Bill O'Neal was appointed to a two-year term by Gov. Rick Perry on August 22, 2012, at an impressive ceremony in the State Capitol. Bill is headquartered at Panola College (www.panola.edu) in Carthage, where he has taught since 1970. For more than 20 years Bill conducted the state's first Traveling Texas History class, a three-hour credit course which featured a 2,100-mile itinerary. In 2000 he was awarded a Piper Professorship, and in 2012 he received the Lifetime Achievement Award from the Wild West Historical Association. Bill has published over 40 books, almost half about Texas history subjects, and in 2007 he was named Best Living Non-Fiction Writer by True West Magazine. In 2013 he was awarded an honorary Doctor of Letters degree by his alma mater, Texas A&M University - Commerce. 

Long before the Pilgrims celebrated Thanksgiving at Plymouth in 1621, a similar feast of thanks was conducted in a region now known as Texas. In 1598 Mexican conquistador Juan de Oñate led an expedition northward to establish the colony of Nuevo Mejico. After surviving life-threatening hardships in the deserts of northern Mexico, the expedition emerged to safety at El Paso del Norte. To celebrate their salvation, Oñate and his colonists joined Native Americans in a feast on April 30, 1598 - the First Thanksgiving.



Our little book about the first Thanksgiving
was published in hardback in 2000, and
remains in print in softcover.

Several years ago I was urged by Ed Eakin, founder of Eakin Press, and by editor Melissa Locke Roberts to write this story for fourth-graders. Melissa skillfully guided me through the process of writing history for juveniles, and Eakin Press secured an experienced illustrator, Polsky Morgan. Since the story is an Hispanic adventure, I enlisted my oldest daughter, Lynn O'Neal Martinez. Lynn is the wife of Tejano Rudy Martinez, a banker from Corpus Christi, and they are the parents of two wonderful girls, my oldest grandchildren. As a college student Lynn studied Spanish, including a term in Mexico, and she became an elementary school teacher specializing in bilingual education.



Lynn O'Neal Martinez
translated our book with
the help of her students.
This photo credit should
go to her older daughter,
Chloe, while little sister
Jessie directed her mother
to raise her head and
smile more.

We decided that this book should be bilingual, with a page of English opposite a corresponding page of Spanish. After I completed this book in English, Lynn translated it into Spanish. At that time she was teaching fifth-graders at John H. Reagan Elementary in Dallas, where she was awarded Teacher of the Year honors. She read her translation to her students, who excitedly interrupted her from time to time. "Teacher! Teacher! Here's how we say that...."

 

Throughout the book a page of English faces a corresponding page of Spanish.
Illustrations were created by Polsky Morgan.

 

 Lynn's final translation combined formal Spanish with age-appropriate vernacular that was a major strength of the book. Of course, it was a delightful experience for me to collaborate with my daughter on a book. And Lynn's Tejano students, while working with their teacher on the translation, became familiar with a story of heroism and importance in Texas history.

Juan de Oñate was one of the wealthiest men in Mexico during the late 1500s. His wife was a granddaughter of conquistador Hernan Cortes and a great-granddaughter of the great Aztec chief, Montezuma. Oñate wanted to conquer a new frontier for Mexico, and he persuaded the Viceroy of Mexico, a personal friend, to appoint him as governor and captain-general of New Mexico to the north. Governor Oñate spent three years organizing a colonization expedition. He collected wagons and carts, supplies and livestock. Peasants were enlisted as colonists with the promise of the rank of hidalgo (from hijo de algo - "son of something"). Early in 1598 Governor Oñate assembled his colonists - more than 400 men, women, children, and soldiers. In addition there were 11 Franciscan priests. On the trail the expedition stretched for four miles.

Governor Oñate intended to blaze a new route northward. But on the deserts of northern Mexico the expedition ran low on food, water, and shoe leather. As the situation grew perilous, Governor Oñate sent eight men ahead to find water. At last they came upon the Rio Grande at a passage soon known as El Paso del Norte. They fished and hunted ducks and geese, and Native Americans from a nearby village brought a supply of fish.

By April 26, 1598, the entire expedition was encamped beneath cottonwood trees beside the river. Governor Oñate proclaimed that before the column crossed the river to march into New Mexico, there should be a celebration of gratitude to God for delivery. A feast was planned, which would include the friendly Native Americans. On March 30 everyone dressed in their best clothing: soldiers donned polished breastplates, priests wore vestments laced with gold, and Governor Oñate was resplendent in full armor. At a candlelit altar, the priests sang High Mass, and Father Alonso Martinez preached an appropriate sermon.

A captain from Spain put together a pageant about the expedition, with soldiers playing the various parts. At the end of the play the Indians knelt in the sand and were baptized. Trumpets then sounded as Governor Oñate steeped forward to claim New Mexico for Spain. Finally a bonfire was started, and fish and venison and duck were roasted. A feast ended the first Thanksgiving - 23 years before the Pilgrims feasted and prayed at Plymouth.



Statue of Juan de Oñate at the El Paso Airport.

Governor Oñate led his colonists north and founded the province of New Mexico. With the passage of years the river channel changed at El Paso, and eventually the former south bank site of the 1598 event became part of Texas. By the 1750s the community of San Elizario was forming on the historic site. When El Paso County was created in 1850, San Elizario became the county seat. (In 1883 the county seat was moved to El Paso following a controversial election.) The first county jail still stands in San Elizario.

An annual celebration of the First Thanksgiving takes place at the beautiful San Elizario Chapel (the current building was erected in 1882). In front of the chapel is a charming plaza, where Los Portales Museum is housed in a long adobe structure. On a recent trip to El Paso I turned south off of I-10 and drove into San Elizario. It was Sunday afternoon and the plaza was busy. At Los Portales Museum the staff was gracious and hospitable. I donated a copy of my book Long Before the Pilgrims to the museum library, and I've since learned that the museum ordered copies to sell.

San Elizario was the scene of most of the violent events of the El Paso Salt War. Not far from the chapel stands a two-story adobe building where a special detachment of 20 Texas Rangers was besieged for three days. At the center of trouble was the county judge, who surrendered to halt the siege. But the judge and two friends were promptly shot by a firing squad of Mexican nationals who had crossed the border. San Elizario has a dramatic past, and there are significant tangible remains that will prove of great interest to history buffs. 

For more information: 

http://www.visitelpasomissiontrail.com/article/san-elizario-walking-tour.html

Oldest jail in El Paso County

Los Portales Museum

Site of Ranger HQ and siege

Old stagecoach station